Mar

The Palio in Siena Awaits You!

Historic Pageant in Medieval costume for the Palio horse race in Siena, Italy

The ultimate expression of culture, art, history and folklore belongs to the people of Siena. Known throughout the world, ‘The Palio’, a spectacular horserace with medieval origins, takes place twice a year at ‘Piazza del Campo’ in the heart of the historical walled city on the 2nd July and the 16th August.

The two events, the ‘Palio di Provenzano’ and the ‘Palio dell’Assunta’ have taken place each year since 1651 and 1701 respectively to celebrate the Madonna di Provenzano, a local apparition of the Virgin Mary and Madonna dell’Assunta the patron saint of Siena who it is believed helped the Siennese destroy the powerful Florentine army at the battle of Monteaperti in 1260.

Being at the Palio allows you to be part of the family of the ‘Contrada’, the 17 fiercely competitive ancient districts of the city who proudly bear their own coat of arms, emblems and colours. Celebrations begin on the 29th June for the ‘Palio of the Provenzano’ and on the 13th August for the ‘Palio of the Assunta.

In the days leading up to the 29th, the Piazza is completely transformed. Writers, and journalists have tried to describe it but the closest they have got to it is “a Circo Massimo” (a circus) but the stage is not in the centre but around the circumference of the piazza which has now been transformed into a track.

The anxiety starts the day before the main race with the Prova generale (general trial) which is a little like a dress rehearsal for the main race where the horses and jockeys are put through their paces in readiness for the big day. That evening, after the trials, the Contrada return to their districts and drown their fears and anxieties and partake in a large banquet usually held outdoors for all the Contrada members, some of which number 500 or even a thousand depending on the size of the Contrada.

This is the time for guests to purchase original Contrada scarves but should be careful about when and where these are worn. During this meal the captain, priore and the jockey all speak about the duty and responsibility bestowed upon them for the big race and the night ends with songs, anthems and lots of wine.

The next day after the food and wine of the night before, the horses are fetched and taken to their respective Contrada churches to be blessed before the race and then taken to their quarters near the Campo where they await patiently. Meanwhile, thousands of spectators have gathered in the centre of the campo and every window and balcony is crammed with onlookers awaiting this amazing event. The whole piazza is electric with anticipation.

The race is preceded by a spectacular pageant known as the “Corteo Storico”,The drums sound the beat of a slow march, a platoon of Carabinieri on horses enter the piazza then an historical procession of mace bearers, standard bearers, drummers, trumpeteers and flag wavers known as the ‘Alfieri’ all adorned in medieval costumes parade around the campo and then at 1930 for the July event and at 1900 for the August event, the Sunto bell stops ringing and silence falls… explosives are detonated and reverberate across the piazza, signalling to the thousands of onlookers that the race is about to begin.

The horses and their jockeys then enter the arena one by one and have to complete three laps prior to the official start. The start or the ‘Mossa’ can take a very long time with the horses jostling for position. The jockeys are allowed to use their whips or ‘Nerba’ traditionally a stretched dried bull’s penis, used not only on their own horse but also on their competitor’s horses and riders in their fight for premium position.

Finally the rope drops and the race begins a fast and furious dash where the winner is the first horse to cross the line with its head embellishments intact. To the rapturous roars and hedonistic madness of the crowds, the winner receives a banner of painted silk, called the Palio, the symbol of victory created each year by a different artist.

For those of you who wish to live this unique experience, UK specialist operator The Italian Connection has put together the following package:

1st July or 15th August (Day before the race)

At approximately 18.30-19.00 you will enter the Piazza del Campo where you will assist in the Prova Generale. You will be comfortably seated or will be looking at the race from a terrace of one of the Piazza’s historical palazzo.

At approximately 20.30, the main meal will take place at the selected Contrada and you will be part of this experience amongst wine and typical foods and the songs of the Contrada. During dinner, it will also be possible to buy the Contrada’s Kerchief, silk with the colours and the emblem of the contrada. You have now been accepted by the Contrada.

2nd July or 16th August (Race day)

At approximately 14.00 hours, after the meeting with the guide who will accompany you on the tour you will take part in the blessing of the horse ceremony. Representatives of all the Contradas will be present, and it is at this point that the famous words “Vai e Torna Vincitore” (Go and return a winner) will be uttered.

You will then head to Piazza Matteotti as this is where your licensed guide will meet you. At 15.30 approx, from Piazza del Duomo, the famous historical procession will walk past stopping to allow you to view their clothes and touch the material of their gown.

At approximately 17.30 hours, from one of the terraces of the historical palaces of the Piazza del Campo you can view the Historical procession and then the race by looking over the curve of San Martino, the most difficult and the most dangerous of the race. You will be breathless waiting for the winner or will you be shouting for your preferred contrada!

At the end of this emotionally charged race, you will make your way to a restaurant in Piazza del Campo still reverberating to the echo of the sounds, noises and smells of the race. You will eat in this great piazza under a myriad of small candles which will illuminate the piazza together with the one flag of the winning Contrada.

During dinner, you will be able to observe the procession of the winning contrada who will be strutting their stuff and showing off their prized Drappellone for the whole night and beyond.

The package does not include accommodation and flights which are extra and subject to availability at the time of booking.

For further details contact The Italian Connection in the UK.